MST: NC 181 (Wilson's Creek Area) to NC 16 (West Jefferson)

This was a section of trail I had circled in my mind from the beginning of my trip.  As I planned out my weekends I tried to look at two factors, when will I exit the mountains and when will I be passing through the Wilson Creek area.  I know this area well from leading backpacking and hiking trips while in college and it's an amazing place to explore.  It's especially great in the summer time when you can enjoy countless swimming holes and the plentiful creek crossings.  I was happy to see the weather was once again in my favor with highs forecast to be in the 60's.  Even with that I wouldn't recommend this segment to most folks for a late fall to early spring trip.

Day 16 November 20

Miles:  14.0

Weather:  Clear skies, highs in the 60's

Camping:  Hunt Fish Falls area

It's been several years since I last backpacked this area.  I have lots of good memories from leading college and high school students through these woods.  In a lot of ways when you go back to an area like this it's like seeing an old friend.  I'm on my own this time but the creek crossings, campsites, waterfalls and trail intersections all bring different stories, people and events back to the forefront of my mind.  Our youngest had a doctors appointment today so this was the latest I've started, however, I know all of today's route so I'm not concerned about being able to make the miles.  Just under 2 miles in I get to the first creek crossing, I was anxious to see the water level, as it would give me a glimpse of how often I would be fording vs rock hopping.  We've had lots of rain this season and the verdict was clear, I would not enjoy much rock hopping.  I made it across this creek the same was I always have, the last move across is always the trickiest especially when the rock you are stepping to is wet.  Regardless, I made the move and kept my feet dry on this crossing.  That accomplishment meant I could keep my feet dry for at least 8 miles.  I took the short side trip and stopped at Harper Creek Falls for a late lunch.  My feet were wet from the second and largest crossing of the day.  Crossings that I easily rock hopped in the past showed no chance of a rock hop, the deepest was just below my knees.  The water was cold but the sun helped ease the discomfort.  All together there were about 10 crossings today.  I'm camped just below Hunt Fish Falls and directly before another crossing.

Harper Creek Falls

Day 17 November 21

Miles:  16.3 (0.7 Extra)

Weather:  Clear skies, Highs in the 60's lows in the mid to upper 30's

Camping:  Streamside Campsite along the Nuwati Trail in Grandfather Mtn. State Park

If you have trouble getting yourself out of bed in the morning and need that cup of coffee before you get started you should consider this alternative method of waking up, it works best in temps below 40 degrees.  As I woke up this morning I knew within 300 ft I would be facing a nearly knee deep creek crossing and I knew it was just above freezing outside.  Somehow, I managed to get myself out of my warm quilt and on trail by 7:15.   That first crossing was frigid!  If I counted right I had 5 crossings in the first 2 miles of hiking.  I had never done this section before so I really didn't know what to expect.  With the higher water levels it was the same as yesterday, no rock hopping.  One crossing seemed a little more high risk than the others.  I say high risk meaning, if you miss one step during the crossing it was likely you would be waist deep.  The deepest crossing made it up above my knees and to the point in which I had stopped rolling up my pant legs.  The water was so cold I couldn't even remember how many crossings I had made which seems easy to keep track of when you only have to count to five.  The best remedy for the numb feet and cold legs was to simply keep moving.  I was teased by the sun as it was shining on the opposite side of the creek, when I crossed, the sun crossed.  By the last two crossings I could smell the smoke of warm campfires but at last, they were from car campers on the opposite side of the creek.  By 8:45 I was climbing gradually uphill and the feeling in my feet was slowly coming back.  Eventually, the water drains from your shoes and body heat starts the drying process it becomes more of a sweaty foot instead of a submerged foot.  My wife and kids met me up at Beacon Heights around 10:45, as they started their day with a short day hike.  When I reached the rock outcrop my feet were mostly dry, shoes were still damp but not terrible.  I only managed to squeeze out a drop or two from my socks.  Beacon Heights was just pass my halfway mark for the day but the afternoon did seem long.  I made it into camp just after 4pm, tomorrow will end up being the longest day I've done on the trail thus far.  I plan to start early in hopes of finishing during the daylight hours.

As I passed Beacon Heights today I completed segment 4 of the MST and moved into segment 5 a 90.3 mile segment that takes you all the way to Devils Garden along the Blue Ridge Parkway.  This is also the last segment in the mountains.  Another random note, I'm carrying my clear bear canister and it was sitting on top of my pack so folks could see what I had in terms of food as I passed.  Farsang, whom gave me my trail name of Snacktime will appreciate the quote of the day.   As a woman passed in the opposite direction she turned to look at the load I was carrying and loudly proclaimed, "WOW! he's got a lot of snacks in there!"

I would have been really upset after 7.4 miles of gravel to not have a rock hop here.

Day 18 November 22

Miles: 24.1 (0.7 Extra)

Weather:  Cloudy, Highs in the 50's lows in the upper 30's

Camping:  Goshen Creek Backcountry campsite NPS H2

Mentally when completing a big day it helps me to get an early start.  I move quickest at dawn and dusk, although I am generally in camp by dusk.  On the AT I did lots of headlight walking towards the end, starting and stoping in the dark as the days grew shorter.  Today the first mental challenge to overcome is knowing that the first 0.7 mile isn't part of the actual MST just a side trail to where I camped.  Everything went well this morning and I was on trail by 5:35.  I could finally turn my headlamp off around 6:45.  It was chilly but not terrible.  The wind at times was a little much but I remained sheltered from that for most of the day.  The morning walk from the Nuwati Trail to Shulls Mill Rd was very pleasant.  I managed not to get my feet wet along the Boone Fork Trail which has many creeks that can generally but not always be crossed with rock hops.  There is also a lot of mud which will get you sometimes more than the creeks.  I enjoyed the rare occurrence of not seeing anyone else along the generally crowded Boone Fork Trail, benefit of starting early!  The trail moves along some old roads and through some pastures before making the climb from Shulls Mill Rd up to the Rich Man Trail, a gravel carriage trail that is part of the Cone Manor trail system.  The gravel carriage trails allowed me to move quicker but they did hurt my feet and I was certainly tired of them after 7.4 miles of gravel.  One great luxury that most people overlook is found at the bathrooms over at Cone Manor.  They have one of the water fountains that is designed to fill large water bottles!  After crossing US 321 between Boone and Blowing Rock it was back to trail.  I made it to camp near Goshen Creek by 3pm.  The camp left much to be desired but I was tired and any other camping would be illegal so I just set up and started eating.  Menu tonight was a ramen pack with a pack of spicy chicken, followed by numerous snacks and then a desert of 2 packs of instant oatmeal.

Day 19 November 23

Miles:  27.2

Weather:  Windy 10-20 mph with gusts to 40.  Highs upper 40's, Lows in the 30's

Camping:  West Jefferson with family (would have camped 2.8 miles earlier at Obids NPS backcountry campsite H4)

Most of my dislike for the NPS campsite last night was the fact that there were two standing dead trees that practically could hit every corner of the site, meaning there was no real escape from the fall line.  Of course I had enough signal to check the forecast and see that a powerful cold front would push through overnight.  I had set up in storm mode for the expected direction of wind and was luckily tired enough not to worry much about the dead trees.  The wind did come but fortunately the site was much better positioned than it had seemed.  My tarp barely moved in the wind, however, I laid there in the morning listening to the massive roar of 40+ mph gusts.  Having done well yesterday and planning to cover 24.4 miles today I started closer to daybreak.  The other reason for this is I did have some road walking along the parkway and Bamboo road which would have some morning traffic as people rode to work or school.  The trails were great today, there has certainly been a change from big ups and downs to more gradual terrain.  As I approached US 421 between Wilkesboro and Boone I had my first view of Pilot Mountain jutting up in the Piedmont of NC, which I will see up close several weekends from now.  The trail would continue along gentle ridges, pastures and periodically move through parkway overlooks for vistas.   The camp tonight would be the NPS Obids Camp (H4).  I made it there by 3:30 and as I walked into the site you could feel the wind increase and the temperature drop.  My family was going to be staying nearby in West Jefferson in order to pick me up tomorrow morning.  Being so early in the day I decided if I could reach them by phone I would change the plan and just hike the extra 2.8 miles today.  After a quick call, the final decision was made, so I ate the last of my snacks and made the 2.8 mile trip down to NC 16.  Although I was prepared for a cold night out it was nice just pushing through and staying in a warm bed and eating a big dinner.  These big days are bringing back my hiker hunger.

Notes:

My hope all along was that I could get out of the mountains before they shut down the parkway for winter weather and maybe that I would miss that weather.   I don't have any problem backpacking in Southeast US snow storms as I've been in many before and have the gear to make it work.  Unfortunately, my guess is things will be closing down this week.  My planning to only stop at a major road crossing should help me continue along despite any parkway closures.  I expect that the next weekend I'm out I will be able to make it from NC 16 up to Devils Garden and then down the escarpment to Stone Mountain State Park where impacts from weather will be short lived.  Based on a long range forecast I might have to delay that next trip due to snow and ice (more for safety of traveling to and from trailheads). 

I also took advantage of a holiday sale at REI and snagged a Hyperlite Moutain Gear Southwest 3400 backpack at a discount.  It worked very well and I think will be great as I start trying to get the kids out on some backpacking trips in the near future.  Happy Hiking!

Total weekend miles:  81.6 

Total miles of MST completed:  316.2